Iraq

February 26, 2024

Iraq: Baghdad, Karbala, and the Weight of History

Few places hit you with as much history—and as many contradictions—as Iraq. Baghdad and Karbala are names that echo through centuries, but being there now, you see the layers: sacred shrines, worn streets, and constant reminders of conflict.

:::note First Impressions From the moment you arrive, the atmosphere is tense. Heavily armed guards and military checkpoints are everywhere. The city’s skyline mixes beautiful mosques with battered buildings. There’s life here—markets, traffic, the call to prayer—but it’s all set against the backdrop of watchtowers and concrete barriers. :::

Baghdad – Between Past and Present

Religious and Historical Sites

• Al-Kadhimiya Mosque: A major Shia pilgrimage site. Golden domes, intricate tilework, and a steady flow of worshippers. Security is tight—you’ll go through metal detectors and checks at every entrance. Inside, the atmosphere is intense but peaceful. The devotion of the people here is striking.

• Abu Hanifa Mosque: Sunni landmark, historic site, and community hub in the Adhamiyah district. Again, expect armed guards and controlled access.

• Tigris River: The famous river splits the city; some calm in the chaos. Riverside cafés are rebuilding, and you’ll see families, but always within sight of military vehicles.

• Mutanabbi Street: Baghdad’s historic booksellers’ street. Stalls, secondhand books, old poetry, and the feel of a city that once led the world in culture and learning. There are reminders of past attacks—damaged facades and security presence.

The Reality

• Heavy U.S. and Local Military Presence: U.S. soldiers, Iraqi army, and police are visible at almost every major intersection and public place.
• Checkpoints: Moving around the city means constant stops, ID checks, and searches.
• Visible War Damage: Many buildings are still scarred from years of conflict—bullet holes, destroyed walls, and abandoned lots.
• Daily Life: Markets are open, taxis run, and street food is still on offer (try the kebabs), but everyone keeps an eye out.

Karbala – Spiritual Centre Under Guard

• Imam Husayn Shrine: One of the most important pilgrimage sites in the world for Shia Muslims. The scale is immense—crowds of pilgrims, chanting, and deep emotion. Entry is strict: metal detectors, bag searches, and armed security everywhere. Despite the tension outside, inside the shrine the atmosphere is reverent and safe.

• Al-Abbas Shrine: Equally significant, just a short walk away. Both shrines are brightly lit at night and form the spiritual heart of the city.

• The Walk Between Shrines: Known as the Bayn al-Haramain, this corridor is always busy. Food stalls, reciters, and volunteers offering free tea—hospitality remains strong despite the heavy presence of guards.

The War Zone Feel

• Military Everywhere: Both Iraqi and foreign troops, armored vehicles, and sandbag bunkers are part of the landscape.
• City at a Crossroads: You’ll see hope—families out, children playing, shrines full of pilgrims. But also fear—closed-off streets, curfews, and frequent reminders of instability.

:::warning Safety Note Iraq is not a typical tourist destination. Every move feels monitored, and visitors need to follow all official advice and restrictions. Photography is restricted in many places, especially near checkpoints, military zones, and shrines. Respect local rules and always ask before snapping pictures. :::

Practical Tips

• Visas and Security: Entry requires advance planning and often a sponsor. Tourists are rare, so expect attention and questions.
• Transport: Private drivers are safest; public transport is limited and crowded.
• Dress: Conservative dress is mandatory—cover arms and legs, especially at religious sites.
• Language: Arabic is essential; English is not widely spoken except by some officials and soldiers.

Final Thoughts

Iraq leaves a mark. It’s humbling to see how people keep living—praying, working, rebuilding—amid scars of war and uncertainty. Baghdad and Karbala are places of enormous faith and history, but also reminders of how quickly peace can turn fragile. For me, this was not a trip for sightseeing or comfort, but for understanding and perspective.

Published: February 26, 2024